Monday, November 14, 2011

Printing tips: 7 Calendar Printing Tips for Profit


Calendar printing is an excellent way for small businesses to increase brand awareness and profits. In fact, it’s one of the strategies I most recommend for businesses who serve a broad range of customers and those who serve a highly-targeted niche. Calendars allow you to put your brand in front of customers 365 days a year, making them some of the most cost-effective per-customer per-day types of marketing.

Try these seven calendar printing tips to get the most out of your calendar campaigns.

1. Give your customers an interesting, relevant design.

The best way to ensure your calendars will be used is to design them to be relevant to your customers and your business. A perfect example is a pet store that prints calendars featuring a different dog breed every month. This type of calendar is perfect because dog lovers will want to use them, and they’re also relevant to the business in question.

2. Inject deals

Your brand logo and contact information should appear on every page of your calendar – that’s a given. But most companies that print calendars overlooking such valuable real estate for direct sales. You can have daily deals, weekly specials, and monthly specials on every page of your calendar. Promote them with coupons or coupon codes so you can track them. For the highest ROI, make your specials relevant to the month. A hardware store, for example, might include offers for snowblowers in December.

3. Go big

Bigger is better because it makes your calendars more attractive, it makes them stand out, and it turns them into conversation pieces. This way your calendar market not only to your recipients, but also their friends, family members, and co-workers. A good size recommendation is 12 in. by 12 in.

4. Thick outside, thin inside

It’s important to choose premium paper stocks for your calendars because they’ll last longer and be less prone to tearing and sun damage. However, that doesn’t mean you need the most expensive paper stocks. Try a 100 lb. gloss cover stock for your outside and 80 lb. gloss text stock for the inside. This leaves more room for profit margin.

5. Saddle stitch and hole drill

Saddle stitching is cheaper than Wire-Os, which means you have more room for profit. You should also drill holes so your calendars can be easily hung. It there’s no hole, your calendars won’t be used.

6. Print in volume

Print as many calendars as you can distribute in a single run to save money, since each run will incur new setup costs.

7. Distribute wisely

It might be tempting to get your calendars in the hands of every soul you pass, but you’ll waste them if your audience won’t respond to them. Instead, hold out and send/give calendars mostly to your target audience members for maximum ROI.


Copyrights: psprint.com
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Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Printing tips: Photo Book Printing

Modern technology has made it both possible and affordable to have your own custom photo book printed for not much more than it costs to purchase prints and a standard photo album. These photo books are a great way to preserve memories and share pictures with friends and family.



Features
In addition to showcasing your favorite snapshots, photo books allow you to add captions, detailed descriptions including the date and location of the picture and full names of the individuals in the photo right next to each photo. This preserves the information for generations to come, since the photo can't accidentally be separated from the written information, and there's no writing on the back of the photo that might fade away. You can also choose custom layouts and backgrounds and can crop and adjust the color in the photos so they look just the way you want.

Types
For just about any event or occasion there is a type of photo book. Birthday, baby and wedding photo books are among the most popular, but anniversary, family reunion, anniversary and vacation picture books are also common. For pet lovers, animal photo books are great, and timeline books that show a person or family through the years are often created for special occasions such as a memorable birthday or graduation.

Misconceptions
Although in some cases poor quality inks and paper mean that a photo book will not last for years to come, it is a misconception that printed digital photos will not last. Photo books printed on high-quality, archival paper using good ink will last for generations. Digital photos can be turned into photo books that will permanently preserve the photos.

Significance
Although photo books typically are created either as a way to personally preserve memories or as a gift for a friend or loved one, they also serve a larger purpose. Much as antique magazines, photo albums and drawings tell us much about culture and society in the past, the photo books created today will someday provide a glimpse into our lives and the times we live in. They may also provide our descendants with information about us.

Considerations
When creating a photo book, consider not only what photos you would like to include, but what information you want to convey. In five, 10 or 20 years, what will you want to remember? What will you want others to know? For example, while you might now know that a particular photo was taken at your child's fifth birthday party, and the name of the best friend pictured, 10 years from now you may not remember whether it was the fifth or sixth birthday and struggle to recall the friend's name. Include this information in the photo book and you won't have to worry about remembering.

Copyrights: ehow.com
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Monday, April 4, 2011

How to Create your Own Hard Cover Book or Journal

It is possible to make a hard cover book just using tools you probably already have at home. Some people in the process have made some beautiful, decorative covers for their prized self-publications and craft projects.

There are several methods to use when doing this and a vast array of tools and equipment that can be used in order to make your book just perfect. This how-to article is meant to instruct you how to create books and booklets with a smaller number of pages.

Instructions

1
Determine the size: This is one thing you can experiment with as you take pieces of inexpensive paper and fold them in different sizes. When done, you can then stack them. It is recommended that you start out with half-folds of regular printing paper and then graduate down to making smaller books.

2
Print the pages: Ideally, it is best if you print them front to back double-sided. You will need to set your printer to make sure the pages run the right direction when you put them in your book.

Some printers have a setting that automatically lets you print book style. Otherwise, perhaps if you have a desktop publishing program you can set it to print the pages the way you need them printed. Microsoft Publisher might work well for this purpose.

3
Stack the pages: When doing so make sure they are all even. If you have a paper jogger that will help. Otherwise, just push one end of the stack of papers hard onto a hard, flat surface such as a table. You might then need to grip the papers tightly so none of them fall loose while you attempt your binding job.

4
Fold the pages exactly in half: It is very important when doing so that the edges of the paper are perfectly aligned. Otherwise, your book will not open or close properly. If you are doing this for the first time it is best if you start out with about 5 sheets of paper for the first time. You need a firm crease, so press the papers down firmly when making your fold.

5
Punch tiny holes evenly along the fold: Ideally, if it is a half-fold paper you would probably need to punch at least four holes up and down the crease using the puncture tool. These should be spaced evenly. The tool you use is a sharp object with a handle like a screwdriver and a head that is not much thicker than a pin.

6
Sew the sheets of paper together: Make sure you use enough thread for this in order to be able to tie the sheets together from the outside center of the fold. If you fold has four punched holes in it, you would first start from the second hole.

Then you would the needled thread through it from the back of the folded pages to the inside and up through the top hold and back through the inside center.

You would then make your way through the second hold from the bottom to the back and then from the back through the bottom hole to the center hole again and out. The end result is to have two strings through the back which you can then tie.

Note that this process will take some practice. Again, it is best if you create smaller books to start, as thicker hard-covered books might have too many pages and you would need to apply a different binding method.

7
Decorate the front and back covers: You need to measure your front and back cover paper as well as the spine paper just right so that you have enough room to fold over the edges during the gluing process.

About a half into to an inch larger than each piece you use to make the cover. This paper is then glued over both pieces that you would use to make the front and back of your hard book cover.

You can use any designer stationary paper or even wrapping paper for this purpose, or one of your own design. Photos and computer graphics often look great when used as a book cover design.

By the way, you should cut the corners of the paper that folds around the front and back cover boards. You should cut it at a slant close to the corner edges of the illustration boards.

8
Decorate the spine: You can use the same paper you used for creating the front and back of your book. You would lay the paper flat on a surface such as a table and then place the illustration board on top of it, as centered as possible.

You might need a ruler to make sure that it is directly in the middle yet leaving enough space to place the front and back covers. Equal room should be left on both sides of the spine on which you would then place the two larger pieces of decorated illustration boards.

9
Place the front and back covers: These would be placed leaving a gap on either side of the spine. This is to allow room for the pages.

The size of the gap for 10 to 20 pages probably would be a half inch or so on either side, but you may need to experiment and watch videos until you get this right. Practice makes perfect.

10
Secure the pages to the front and back covers: The easiest way to do this is to leave the book cover that you just created lying flat on the table.

Then, you spread glue over the inside of both the front and back of it, but not the spine. Then you place the spine while pressing it firmly to make sure it holds in place.

Copyrights: ehow.com
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Sunday, March 20, 2011

Color printing- history, today and future..Wiki

Color printing or Colour printing is the reproduction of an image or text in color (as opposed to simpler black and white or monochrome printing). Any natural scene or color photograph can be optically and physiologically dissected into three Primary Colors, red, green and blue, roughly equal amounts of which give rise to the perception of white, and different proportions of which give rise to the visual sensations of all other colors. The additive combination of any two primary colors in roughly equal proportion gives rise to the perception of a Secondary Color. For example, red and green yields yellow, red and blue yields magenta (a purple hue), and green and blue yield cyan (a turquoise hue). Only yellow is counter-intuitive. Yellow, cyan and magenta are merely the "basic" secondary colors: unequal mixtures of the primaries give rise to perception of many other colors all of which may be considered "tertiary."

Today

While there are many techniques for reproducing images in color, specific graphic processes and industrial equipment are used for mass reproduction of color images on paper. In this sense, "color printing" involves reproduction techniques suited for printing presses capable of thousands or millions of impressions for publishing newspapers and magazines, brochures, cards, posters and similar mass-market items. In this type of industrial or commercial printing, the technique used to print full-color images, such as color photographs, is referred to as four-color-process or merely process printing. Four inks are used: three secondary colors plus black. These ink colors are cyan, magenta and yellow; abbreviated as CMYK. Cyan can be thought of as minus-red, magenta as minus-green, and yellow as minus-blue. These inks are semi-transparent or translucent. Where two such inks overlap on the paper due to sequential printing impressions, a primary color is perceived. For example, yellow (minus-blue) overprinted by magenta (minus green) yields red. Where all three inks may overlap, almost all incident light is absorbed or subtracted, yielding near black. It is because of this poor "subtractive" black that a separate black ink is used. The secondary or subtractive colors cyan, magenta and yellow may be considered "primary" by printers and watercolorists (whose basic inks and paints are transparent).
Two graphic techniques are required to prepare images for four-color printing. In the "pre-press" stage, original images are translated into forms that can be used on a printing press, through "color separation," and "screening" or "halftoning." These steps make possible the creation of printing plates that can transfer color impressions to paper on printing presses based on the principles of lithography.
An emerging method of full-color printing is six-color process printing (for example, Pantone's Hexachrome system) which adds orange and green to the traditional CMYK inks for a larger and more vibrant gamut, or color range. However, such alternate color systems still rely on color separation, halftoning and lithography to produce printed images.
Color printing can also involve as few as one color ink, or multiple color inks which are not the primary colors. Using a limited number of color inks, or specific color inks in addition to the primary colors, is referred to as "spot color" printing. Generally, spot-color inks are specific formulations that are designed to print alone, rather than to blend with other inks on the paper to produce various hues and shades. The range of available spot color inks, much like paint, is nearly unlimited, and much more varied than the colors that can be produced by four-color-process printing. Spot-color inks range from subtle pastels to intense fluorescents to reflective metallics.
Color printing involves a series of steps, or transformations, to generate a quality color reproduction. The following sections focus on the steps used when reproducing a color image in CMYK printing, along with some historical perspective.
History of color printing

Woodblock printing on textiles preceded printing on paper in both Asia and Europe, and the use of different blocks to produce patterns in color was common. The earliest way of adding color to items printed on paper was by hand-coloring , and this was widely used for printed images in both Europe and Asia. Chinese woodcuts have this from at least the 13th century, and European ones from very shortly after their introduction in the 15th century, where it continued to be practiced, sometimes at a very skilled level, until the 19th century - elements of the official British Ordnance Survey maps were hand-colored by boys until 1875. Early European printed books often left spaces for initials, rubrics and other elements to be added by hand, just as they had been in manuscripts, and a few early printed books had elaborate borders and miniatures added. However this became much rarer after about 1500.
[edit]Europe
Most early methods of color printing involved several prints, one for each color, although there were various ways of printing two colors together if they were separate. Liturgical and many other kinds of books required rubrics, normally printed in red; these were long done by a separate print run with a red forme for each page. Other methods were used for single leaf prints. The chiaroscuro woodcut was a European method developed in the early 16th century, where to a normal woodcut block with a linear image (the "line block"), one or more colored "tone blocks" printed in different colors would be added. This was the method developed in Germany; in Italy only tone blocks were often used, to create an effect more like a wash drawing. Jacob Christoph Le Blon developed a method using three intaglio plates, usually in mezzotint; these were overprinted to achieve a wide range of colors.
Asia

Bijin (beautiful woman) ukiyo-e by Keisai Eisen, before 1848
In Europe and Japan, color woodcuts were normally only used for prints rather than book illustrations. In Chinese woodblock printing, where the individual print did not develop until the nineteenth century, the reverse is true, and early color woodcuts mostly occur in luxury books about art, especially the more prestigious medium of painting. The first known example is a book on ink-cakes printed in 1606, and color technique reached its height in books on painting published in the seventeenth century. Notable examples are the Treatise on the Paintings and Writings of the Ten Bamboo Studio of 1633, and the Mustard Seed Garden Painting Manual published in 1679 and 1701.[1]
In Japan color technique, called nishiki-e in its fully developed form, spread more widely, and was used for prints, from the 1760s on. Text was nearly always monochrome, as were images in books, but the growth of the popularity of ukiyo-e brought with it demand for ever increasing numbers of colors and complexity of techniques. By the nineteenth century most artists worked in color. The stages of this development were:
Sumizuri-e (墨摺り絵, "ink printed pictures") - monochrome printing using only black ink
Benizuri-e (紅摺り絵, "crimson printed pictures") - red ink details or highlights added by hand after the printing process;green was sometimes used as well
Tan-e (丹絵) - orange highlights using a red pigment called tan
Aizuri-e (藍摺り絵, "indigo printed pictures"), Murasaki-e (紫絵, "purple pictures"), and other styles in which a single color would be used in addition to, or instead of, black ink
Urushi-e (漆絵) - a method in which glue was used to thicken the ink, emboldening the image; gold, mica and other substances were often used to enhance the image further. Urushi-e can also refer to paintings using lacquer instead of paint; lacquer was very rarely if ever used on prints.
Nishiki-e (錦絵, "brocade pictures") - a method in which multiple blocks were used for separate portions of the image, allowing a number of colors to be utilized to achieve incredibly complex and detailed images; a separate block would be carved to apply only to the portion of the image designated for a single color. Registration marks called kentō (見当) were used to ensure correspondence between the application of each block.
19th century

Children's book illustration by Randolph Caldecott; engraving and printing by Edmund Evans, 1887
In the 19th century a number of different methods of color printing, using woodcut (technically Chromoxylography) and other methods, were developed in Europe, which for the first time achieved widespread commercial success, so that by the later decades the average home might contain many examples, both hanging as prints and as book illustrations. George Baxter patented in 1835 a method using an intaglio line plate (or occasionally a lithograph), printed in black or a dark color, and then overprinted with up to twenty different colors from woodblocks. Edmund Evans used relief and wood throughout, with up to eleven different colors, and latterly specialized in illustrations for children's books, using fewer blocks but overprinting non-solid areas of color to achieve blended colors. Artists such as Randolph Caldecott, Walter Crane and Kate Greenaway were able to draw influence from the Japanese prints now available and fashionable in Europe to create a suitable style, with flat areas of color.
Chromolithography was another process, which by the end of the 19th century had become dominant, although this still used multiple prints with a stone for each color. Mechanical color separation, initially using photographs of the image taken with three different color filters, reduced the number of prints needed to three. Zincography, with zinc plates, later replaced lithographic stones, and remained the commonest method of color printing until the 1930s.
[edit]Modern process

Color separation process
The process of color separation starts by separating the original artwork into red, green, and blue components (for example by a digital scanner). Before digital imaging was developed, the traditional method of doing this was to photograph the image three times, using a filter for each color. However this is achieved, the desired result is three grayscale images, which represent the red, green, and blue (RGB) components of the original image:
The next step is to invert each of these separations. When a negative image of the red component is produced, the resulting image represents the cyan component of the image. Likewise, negatives are produced of the green and blue components to produce magenta and yellow separations, respectively. This is done because cyan, magenta, and yellow are subtractive primaries which each represent two of the three additive primaries (RGB) after one additive primary has been subtracted from white light.
Cyan, magenta, and yellow are the three basic colors used for color reproduction. When these three colors are variously used in printing the result should be a reasonable reproduction of the original, but in practice this is not the case. Due to limitations in the inks, the darker colors are dirty and muddied. To resolve this, a black separation is also created, which improves the shadow and contrast of the image. Numerous techniques exist to derive this black separation from the original image; these include grey component replacement, under color removal, and under color addition. This printing technique is referred to as CMYK (the "K" being short for "key." In this case, the key color is black).
Today's digital printing methods do not have the restriction of a single color space that traditional CMYK processes do. Many presses can print from files that were ripped with images using either RGB or CMYK modes. The color reproduction abilities of a particular color space can vary; the process of obtaining accurate colors within a color model is called color matching.
Screening
Inks used in color printing presses are semi-transparent and can be printed on top of each other to produce different hues. For example, green results from printing yellow and cyan inks on top of each other. However, a printing press cannot vary the amount of ink applied to particular picture areas except through "screening," a process that represents lighter shades as tiny dots, rather than solid areas, of ink. This is analogous to mixing white paint into a color to lighten it, except the white is the paper itself. In process color printing, the screened image, or halftone for each ink color is printed in succession. The screen grids are set at different angles, and the dots therefore create tiny rosettes, which, through a kind of optical illusion, appear to form a continuous-tone image. You can view the halftoning, which enables printed images, by examining a printed picture under magnification.
Traditionally, halftone screens were generated by inked lines on two sheets of glass that were cemented together at right angles. Each of the color separation films were then exposed through these screens. The resulting high-contrast image, once processed, had dots of varying diameter depending on the amount of exposure that area received, which was modulated by the grayscale separation film image.
The glass screens were made obsolete by high-contrast films where the halftone dots were exposed with the separation film. This in turn was replaced by a process where the halftones are electronically generated directly on the film with a laser. Most recently, computer to plate (CTP) technology has allowed printers to bypass the film portion of the process entirely. CTP images the dots directly on the printing plate with a laser, saving money, increasing quality (by reducing the repeated generations), reducing lead-times, and saving the environment from toxic film-processing chemicals.
Screens with a "frequency" of 60 to 120 lines per inch (lpi) reproduce color photographs in newspapers. The coarser the screen (lower frequency), the lower the quality of the printed image. Highly absorbent newsprint requires a lower screen frequency than less-absorbent coated paper stock used in magazines and books, where screen frequencies of 133 to 200 lpi and higher are used.
The measure of how much an ink dot spreads and becomes larger on paper is called dot gain. This phenomenon must be accounted for in photographic or digital preparation of screened images. Dot gain is higher on more absorbent, uncoated paper stock such as newsprint.

References

Bruno, Michael H. (Ed.) (1995). Pocket Pal: A Graphic Arts Production Handbook (16th ed.). Memphis: International Paper
Gascoigne, Bamber. How to Identify Prints: A Complete Guide to Manual and Mechanical Processes from Woodcut to Inkjet, 1986 (2nd Edition, 2004), Thames & Hudson, ISBN 050023454X
Hunt, R.W.G., The Reproduction of Color (1957, 1961, 1967, 1975) ISBN 0-85242-356-X
Yule, John A.C., Principles of Color Reproduction (1967, 2000) ISBN 0-88362-222-X
Morovic, J., Color Gamut Mapping (2008) ISBN 978-0-470-03032-5



Copyrights: wikipedia.org

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